The Development of Lingerie
These days lingerie has been categorized by its age. Most of this is based upon people’s opinions. Three categories which help one when buying lingerie are:
Old, 5 to 10 years.
Vintage, 30 to 75 years.
Antique, over 100 years old.
The Development of Lingerie
Loin cloth wrapping.
The civilizations in the Mediterranean were the cradle of man, where weaving and clothing manufacturing were developed The earliest below the waist garments were loin cloths, worn by men and women. The Toga, an outer garment, worn by men and women, the male version was more elaborate than women’s. Women were not averse to showing their breasts. These developments took place at least 3000 years ago. In that era travel was more difficult so progress varied from place to place. The main creative centers were Egypt, Greece, Crete (the Minoan civilization) and at a much later date Rome. A primitive metal and whale bone corset was created during this period. With the improvement of materials, cotton (Egypt). silk {China} clothing design took a leap forward. One must note that the wealthy who enjoyed these developments. The poor as usual had to put up with what they could get.
It’s interesting to note that crossdressing or transgenderism did exist during this period and others. A couple of books in the ‘Old Testament,’ called Leviticus and Deuteronomy have a lot to say about it.
For a long time women’s undergarments didn’t change much. They generally wore chemises (shift or smock). Breast coverings (binding or bags sewn to the inside of the upper garment). Underpants, this is not too clear, there probably was some form of under shorts as silk underwear has been referenced. Hose and garters (leg coverings socks and support). Corsets also started to appear. Serious lingerie development did not start until the 17th and 18th centuries. This was creation of the royal courts and competition in fashion.
There are two main themes running through the history of lingerie. They are brassieres (bras) and corsets. It’s not until more modern time that lingerie became a fashion item.
The Bra
A early corset.
I think it’s fair to say that the bra as we know it today, actually started to be developed in the 16th century. With the introduction of corsets women’s breasts were pushed upwards and became more obvious.Thus cleavage was created, which men considered to be more pleasing to the eye. Primitive bras were developed into what we know today. Women also used padding to enhance their breasts, thus creating the first ‘falsies.’
The next major upgrade was in 1914, when a woman, not wanting to wear a corset, created a primitive bra from handkerchiefs and tape. The idea became popular so she took out a Patent. She then sold the patent to Warners Brothers Corset Company and the modern bra was created, from which Warner Brothers made millions. Women now bought bras instead of corsets.
Women now bought bras instead of corsets. They were more easily handled and more comfortable than a corset. Modern bras were popularized by lingerie vendors such as Victoria’s Secret, Agent Provocateur, and Frederick’s of Hollywood. Underwire, soft cup, push up and bullet bras were developed. Standard sizing was also introduced.
The Corset
Getting your laces tight often required help.
Corset development became a factor in the 18th century. The shape of the corset changed until it trimmed the waist and created the hour glass figure. Initially it was flat or shaped like a reverse cone. Also we have items fitted to the corset such as hoops that made the dresses billow out to cone-like shapes. Corsets were also affected by fashion. The introduction of the empire waist for example hid the waist so the tight lacing wasn’t required. Alternately the Peplum had the opposite affect. Tight lacing became a major factor and some extremely small waists were created. It became a social issue as women who did it were criticized. Simple machines were designed to help women tighten her corset laces.
A modern corset.
A “simple” machine to tighten ones laces.
We now come to the 20th and 21st centuries. Bras and all other forms of lingerie are in the same boat. Clothing manufacturing can now produce garments of any kind quite rapidly and design has taken a huge leap forward. Vivienne Westwood displayed corsets as outer garments (think Twiggy), as did Paul Gautier with Madonna. Corset varieties and colors abound. Prices have been reduced. One can buy corsets on the net for less than $20.00. One can still buy imitation vintage lingerie and it’s possible to buy real antique or vintage clothing and lingerie. Some original items can be discovered, but they are expensive. Beware of copies pretending to be the real thing.
There is one large web resource for corsetry called the Long Island Staylace Association. One can find anything one wants to know about corsets on this site. I mean anything.
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Category: History, Transgender Opinion
About the Author (Author Profile)
I was born in England in 1935 and spent fourteen years in British Navy starting in 1951. I married in 1958 and stayed that way for 51 years. My wife gave me 3 sons all now in their fifties, only one knows of my little pecadilo. Four grand children all in or completed University. I emigrated to Canada in 1968. Worked for the oil, gas and power industries until I retired at 66. My first wife died of cancer in 2009. I was introduced to Gail by a mutual friend and we have been together six years and married for three. Gail was aware of my crossdressing before we married and supports it wholeheartedly with some rules. I have to be Paul some of the time, which is fair. I am a Libra and I own it.Subscribe
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